Full Guide To Authentication of EVISU Denim !!!
Please read this first !!!!
One of the wonderful things about eBay is that while we don't actually know who we are dealing with... through the feedback system, you can get to know who you are dealing with. Obviously, we'd all like to buy from 100% positive sellers with 10,000+ feedback scores next to their UserIDs, but this is rarely the case. There are a few red flags to keep an eye out for that evryone should know please read below.
- PRIVATE FEEDBACK sellers: This may fly in other categories, but when you are looking to buy authentic EVISU, not being able to see the seller's feedback is just unacceptable(and is shady). It is important to see not only a seller's total score, but also the individual comments.
- NEGATIVE FEEDBACK for authenticity: Be very careful to scrutinize feedback for signs that the seller has sold fakes in the past... this is NEVER a good sign also watch out for fairly new sellers since they dont have a lot of feedback's they the seller have no prior experience with selling high end denim like EVISU and you might want to becarfull
- ZERO FEEDBACK for selling: The only way to get to know your seller is by watching what they buy and sell on eBay. If there is no feedback record, you have nothing to look at in making the determination of whether you want to trust the person with hundreds of dollars. Be careful since EVISU is counterfeited a lot please be very careful with your purchase.
No.0 - It's like a evisu prototype denim, seems very rare/limited and is meant to be more irregular and textured than the no1. Really no one knows much about it.
No.1 - 14.5oz. selvedge and made in japan. high quality and is not pre-shrunk (unsanforised), is slightly darker than no.2
NO.1 SPECIAL
No1Special is unsanforized japanese selvage denim woven in Osaka by Kaihara Corps Ltd. Unsanforized denim is the most authentic cloth, as used on the very earliest jeans. It has a slightly hairy surface and the warp and weft yarns are quite loose. When it is first washed, the yarn fibers will contract, making the denim much tighter, and causing the garment to shrink. Another effect will be leg twist or skewing. Skewed legs are a sure sign of true vintage jeans. No1Special is cut in shrink-to-fit blocks (e.g. 0001stf), so you should buy your normal size for preshrunk jeans and hot soak them before wearing. We recommend soaking them at one of the many hot springs about 100 km south of Osaka, but if that’s not possible, a warm bathtub soak and an overflowing cup of sake for yourself will suffice.
No.2 -14.5oz selvedge and made in japan. high quality but may be not as dark or seen as good quality as No.1 and is preshrunk (sanforised)
NO.2
No2 denim is identical to No1Special, but sanforized. Woven in Osaka Japan on half-width shuttle looms with signature pink selvage. No2 is a mid-to heavy-weight 13.7 oz denim and has a deep blue tone with a very slight red caste. The sanforization process was invented by Sanford Cluett in 1933 and involves passing the unfinished cloth through heated rubber rollers, causing the fibers to shrink and stretching the fabric into a stable state, which will not alter with washing. Sanforizing also prevents the jeans from skewing (twisting). Lastly, the singeing process takes off the hairy surface: before 1933, all denim was unsanforized (like our No1Special).
No.3 - mass produced outside of Japan in CHINA. medium grade quality and not selvedge. (sanforised)
NO.3
No3 is the original famous Evisu Heritage selvage denim, previously known as D85. No3 denim is woven from unbleached ‘mother cotton’, and the warp is rope dyed with indigo to an extremely deep blue, almost black tone. Rope dyeing is so-called because the cotton yarn is twisted into a ‘rope’ which is dipped into a vat of indigo before being brought up high to the roof of a dye-house, allowing the unstable indigo compounds to oxidise on the cotton, turning it from a murky brown-green color to the deep intense blue of fine selvage denim. No3 can be recognized by the unusual ‘rising’ sun red and white selvage.
NO.4
No4 is another brand-new denim specially developed for the Evisu Heritage Spring 2009 collection. The denim is woven from open-end yarn, with no slubs where the yarns are knotted together during weaving. Open-end yarn denim has a smoother, flatter surface than ring-spun denim. Like all Evisu Heritage denim, No4 is woven on half-width shuttle looms. Shuttle looms use a singe continuous weft yarn which passes backwards and forwards across the warp threads, making a clean woven selvage, unlike modern projectile looms, which shoot the weft yarns across the warp one by one. No4 denim is woven with a classic redline selvage.
NO.13
No13Left is a close reproduction of the early denim used by Lee from the 1910s onwards. It is a left hand twill cloth, which is identifiable by the diagonal twill lines, which run from top-left to bottom-right. Unlike normal right hand twill denim, which is the opposite, left hand twill denim wears down even softer than its’ right hand equivalent. No13Left is green caste indigo, and has mismatched selvage: one side is plain white, and the other side has a single warp thread of indigo woven into it, staying true to the specifications of the original Lee version. Lastly, jeans cut from No13Left denim have the leather patch sewn on the left side of the waistband.
Evisu are just another repro company in respect to their fits. all vintage cuts.
COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA
WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SIZING OF YOUR EVISU GENES:
EVISU has 6 different lines in production
DELUXE EDITION !
The Japanese selvedge denim that the Deluxe jeans are made from is produced by Kuroki Japan, one of Japan's finest and most prestigious denim makers.
HERITAGE !
MEN'S MAINLINE !
EVISU EUROPEAN EDITION !
EV GENES !
This is collaborations between EVISU and other diffrent name brands.
WASHING INSTRUCTIONS !
INDIGO, UNWASHED DENIM !
PRE-WASHED DENIM AND ALL EVISU EUROPEAN EDITION JEANS !
WASH YOUR JEANS FIRST !
CUTTING THE LENGTH !
TO WASH OR NOT TO WASH !
Most Evisu Men's genes come with 5-BUTTON front closure, especially the raw denim genes.
All Evisu Genes ribbons and rivets on the inside and outside of the jeans either come with words "EVISU" written on them or Japanese letters.
Most Evisu Genes should have a chain stitch. Chain stitch is on the inside of the jean. When you turn up the jean, the selvedge should show and on the opposite side to the selvedge there should be the chainstichin yellow or gold.
Most Evisu Geans have TWO tags attached. One tag attached to the right rear pocket.
Second one is on the waist on the back left side of the jean .
The tag has words "EVISU GENES" written, and a picture of a man painting EVISU logo on a pair of jeans. The inside of the tag has some pointers on how to spot fake evisu jeans.
The patch on the back should be made of leather.
Evisu does make shorts. However EVISU DO NOT make Daicock shorts with the paint that runs down the back of the legs (that appears as a large "M").
Unfortunately, counterfeit Evisus have swept the market. Wondering if your pair is real? Well, Evisu offers free validation service. If you are unsure about the authenticity of an Evisu item, a shop or a website, email the Evisu company at info@evisu. com with the details of your concern or you can always ask me to authenticate the jeans for you since i have been selling EVISU for years i can tell fakes from real pretty good.
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Try to stay away from the new sellers that just got into the high end denim retail selling. They expertise cannot be reliable because they only started selling and to sell EVISU you really need to know your denim. Make sure you are purchasing your EVISU items from a reputable seller or store.
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Make sure that the sellers is using his/her own pictures to make sure they are in possession of the items. If they won’t show you exactly what you’re getting then they have something to hide !
If you have found the information helpful in my Guide, please rate it with a YES vote.
http://reviews.ebay.ca/EVISU-Guide-2-Evrything-you-wanted-2-know-about-EVISU_W0QQugidZ10000000007715993